A Hike With Suntok the Hunting Dog

Along the Pacific fringes of the Sierra Madre Mountain Range and in the heart of the San Ildefonso Peninsula in Aurora province lives a man named Vic and his dog that he fondly calls Suntok. They have a bond, not just master and animal but even much deeper than that. Suntok is a mongrel and he was raised by Vic since he was a pup, not as a pet or a guard animal but a hunting dog.

I met Vic one humid summer during an exploratory hike deep in the jungles of Casiguran. He presented himself as a guide and he offered to show us a cave that his father discovered years ago during one of his treks. I was with a team of adventurers, ready for whatever surprises may be in store for us. Equipped with ropes, harnesses, head lamps, GPS and maps we headed off from a fabulous beach in Dalugan. Our hiking boots dug deep in the soft white sand that during the rainy months is battered by humongous waves sought after by seasoned surfers. But since it is summer, the sea is flat and very inviting.


Dalugan is actually a secret paradise, specially for surfers. It is laced with a long stretch of white sand beach pockmarked with rocky tidal zones that had been carved by the elements. Deep depressions on the rock had been formed into lovely pools that serve as a playground for the local kids. When the tide is low these pools trap water and provide a few hours of swimming pleasure for those who wish to indulge. Amazingly some pools are big enough for a few laps. When the season is right Dalugan beach is washed by amazing barrels that even international surfers seek.

After hiking for thirty minutes along the coast Vic motioned us to enter the beach forest. It was actually a remnant of an old growth forest that had been subjected to pressure from the need of humans to convert them into agricultural land. A few agoho or tropical pine trees sway in the breeze sprinkling small cones and needles on the ground. They are not related to the pine trees that grow in higher elevation, but they also have cones and needles. Upon entering the grove of trees we started hiking up a slope covered with grass. From the top of the hill we were treated to a magnificent view of the cove, the reefs, the small coves and the majestic Pacific. When we turned our back from the view to resume our hike Vic’s dog Suntok rushed ahead of us as if he knew exactly which way to go.

“Pasensiya na kayo sa aso ko. Sanay kasi siya maghanap ng baboy damo kaye laging nauuna (My apologies. My dog is used to hunting for wild boar, hence he loves to be ahead of everyone) ,” Vic remarks.

Amazed that a mongrel would be hunting for wild boar I asked if there are still boars around. After all they are known to attack specially if they feel threatened. Vic said that sadly there’s very few left. As more people came to live in the peninsula, the population decreased due to uncontrolled hunting. The population could not catch up with the speed by which they were being caught. I thought that many animals share the same story. I wondered if Suntok even noticed the change.


A two hour walk deep in the jungles was rewarded by a discovery of a woody climber called jade vine. As we were traversing a creek we noticed green and purple flowers scattered on the ground. Some were even being carried by the water. I have only seen jade vines in pictures and I couldn’t help but be overwhelmed. I had the same feeling the first time I saw a field of pitcher plants somewhere in the forest of Isabela. Jade vine flowers are clustered in a bouquet, 60 to 90 centimeters long, which hangs gracefully from the stem. The flower itself is beautiful, resembling lobster claws. Each one is five to seven centimeters long, boat-shaped, and gently curved like an upturned beak of a bird. Unknown to many, the Strongylodon macrobotrys is no longer common because it is one of the most threatened groups of plants in the Philippines. The unique aquamarine-jade color is highly appealing such that hikers are usually tempted to pick them. It is also called liana, and is abundant in the rain forests of Aurora. They are found mostly near rivers and streams.

Suntok seem to read my mind as he pawed at the flowers floating on the water. Then unexpectedly he leaped across the river and ran through the bush. He disappeared momentarily and reappeared panting. He stopped along the trail and waited for his Master. Vic said that we are near the cave. It was obvious that the dog knew it too. We entered a forest where trees rose to the sky and formed a thick blanket of canopy over us and everything else. Long strands of vines fell and looped from tree to tree. I could smell guano mingling with the earthy odor of rotting wood and leaves. Fungi in various shapes, colors and sizes bloom as they contribute to the decomposition of fallen logs. After clambering over boulders and large trunks of dead trees Vic said that we have arrived.

I could not see any large cave opening anywhere but the smell of pungent bat urine was unmistakable. Then Vic pointed out a hole on the ground and a dark void beneath it.

“Dyan tayo papasok (We go in there), “ he declared with no indication that we can object.


Ropes, carabiners and harnesses were taken out and soon we were scrambling our way in a small hole and dropping in a deep dark cave. Suntok sat quietly as if he knew that he could not come with us. The cave haven’t been named and it is still virtually unexplored. We entered some of its narrow corridors and small chambers with bats hitting our lamps every now and then. Stalactites and stalagmites decorate the chambers but according to Vic the best ones are found further deeper into the dark corridor. New stalagmites are being born as egg-like droppings are clustered close to one another . As long as water percolates through the rocks this process will continue. The integrity of the caves however rely on the forest above. When trees are cut the ability of the soil to hold water is reduced and this affects the ability of caves to create amazing formations.

Having enough adventure for one day we clambered up the hole and out into the forest where Suntok the hunting dog waited. There may be no need for his services anymore because there are no animals to hunt. Having him around though reminded all of us of the fact that most of nature work in predetermined cycles and processes, some following instincts that make them do what they had been doing, expecting the same events over and over. Suntok the hunting dog cannot hunt anymore but he is clearly a metaphor of what lies ahead for most life forms including humans.

Catanduanes: Frontier Territory

It was a hot humid morning when I arrived in Virac, the capital of Catanduanes. The weather was a far cry from what it was two weeks before when a typhoon lashed across the country. Catanduanes has always been known as an island that is relentlessly hit by typhoons. Hence, some call it “The Land of the Howling Winds”. Nonetheless, it has made the people resilient. Their strong adherence to the Catholic faith has also made them stronger as a people. There are Catholic chapels almost on every block which made me wonder whether they are ever filled up on any given Sunday. Formerly a sub-province of Albay, Catanduanes is said to have been discovered by Bornean datus who came all the way from Panay in the 13th century. Perhaps this was the reason why one of the islands on the east coast had been called by the same name. It was this island that I came to Catanduanes for. My intention was to explore the underwater frontier of this island paradise.

Catanduanes came from the word Catanduan which means “where tando trees abound”. I don’t know exactly what tando trees look like but I do know that the province abound with abaca trees and is in fact one of the country’s largest producer of unprocessed abaca fibers. Most households are engaged in collecting, stripping and drying of abaca. This plant that resembles a banana tree grows wild on the island.


My drive from Virac to Panganiban, the jump-off point to Panay island, was quite interesting since the landscape and seascape proved to be quite stunning. My first stop was the town of Bato where a centuries-old coralline church stood. It’s construction started in 1830. It was only finished after 53 years. Despite the numerous typhoons and the ravages of time, it has managed to remain well preserved. From Bato I took the eastern coastal road that passes through Puraran, the torch bearer of Catanduanes, as far as tourism is concerned. It was this beach that placed the province on the surfing map of the world. Puraran is considered to be one of the meanest surfing sites and only seasoned surfers can safely ride the waves here. It is known for the “Majestic” waves with long breathtaking barrels. When I got there however a different Puraran presented itself to me. The sea was flat and the long stretch of beach was empty. Locals said that the beach normally is filled up with surfers from September to February when the northeast monsoon is blowing, creating swells and surf that even international surfers seek.

The weather may not be ideal for surfing but I came here to dive. So I wasn’t disappointed. I was even thankful that the weather was ideal for what I wanted to do. Further north of Puraran, is an endless chain of coves, bays and inlets. I lost count as I was distracted by the mini-rice terraces that were carved from the slopes of the hills and the small valleys. After five hours of travel, I finally got to Payo, a community that is now officially known as Panganiban. Here is where my host family resides. A diver friend Dr. Rene Reyes is a cardiologist who grew up here. He boasts of stunning reef areas, extensive wet lands, miles and miles of coastline that had been shaped and re-shaped by nature. It was upon his invitation that I came with my diving gear to discover what very few people have actually seen.



Our first dive was in a place called Dayhagan. A shallow reef crest dropped abruptly to 60 feet. Massive foliose corals decorate the reef and they resemble lettuce and cabbages. Tiny reef fishes darted in and out of the corals and swam as one entity. From the edge I saw several rock pinnacles jutting up from the sandy bottom. The 100-feet visibility provided a pleasant swim from rock to rock. Crevices, tunnels and caves characterize the massive underwater rock formations. Swimming through them provided some thrilling moments. Over at a place called Loran the stunning walls and drop-offs again amazed me as we discovered numerous caves and overhangs. Hundreds of glass fishes hover in the safety of these tunnels that I practically parted the schools as I swam through them. The site was named such because of the Loran station that was built by the Americans in 1953 and was operated by them until 1971 when it was turned over to the Philippine government. The long stretch of white sandy beach and the coralline islands and magnificent underwater terrain must have fascinated the Americans way back then. Locals told stories of sea planes that used to land here and the times when they used to watch foreign movies in the Loran station. The Americans stationed here must have felt so lucky to have been assigned to live in paradise.


The fish sanctuary over at the southeast portion of Panay Island was a shallow pleasant dive. Several species of fish and soft corals made the reef look so pretty and colorful. It was obvious that the care that the fisherfolks had been putting into the sanctuary has been paying off. The shallow reefs is an excellent snorkeling site as well.

My exploratory trip to Panay ended up as a journey of discovery. It was a sojourne filled with exciting prospects for more adventure trips in the future. Asian Spirit flies four times a week to Virac. Several accommodation facilities are found within the capital. Midtown Inn, Rakdell Inn, Maren;s Pension House and Rhaj Inn are good places to stay. Twin Rock Beach Resort located at the outskirt of Virac is an excellent retreat. It is located in a nice cove with golden sand and a shallow reef area that drops down to a wall that reaches down to 100 feet. In Puraran, one can stay at the Puraran Beach Resort. Traveling to the more remote towns require homestay accommodations and an adventurous spirit. As an emerging destination Catanduanes definitely is a destination to watch out for.

Wild Wild East

Nordis, November 19, 2007
From Nordis, January 13, 2008
Of all the years that I have travelled to many remote places in the country, one thing became clear to me. The less accessible a place is the more preserved it is. People is a major source of change. They can alter the landscape, dilute culture, replace indigenous ways of thinking and doing. There is one place I had been visiting for the last eight years that had remained virtually unchanged because of its isolation. It is a place where nature proceeds in its own pace and where people are deeply connected to their environment because their survival depends on it.

The Northern Sierra Madre Natural Park is the biggest park system in the Philippines, covering an area of 359,486 hectares, including 287,861 hectares of land and 71,625 hectares of marine area. It is located in the province of Isabela and covers 12 major types of habitat. Studies show that 70 globally threatened and near threatened species of wildlife are found in the park. Being exposed to the harshness of the Pacific very few people live in this wilderness. Only an estimated 32,500 people including 1,000 indigenous Dumagats or Agtas reside within or adjacent to the park. There are no roads connecting the park to the developed municipalities of Isabela in the west. There are three ways of getting there- by boat from Sta. Ana, Cagayan in the north or from Baler, Aurora in the south, and a faster way which is to fly from Ilagan to Palanan.


Not too keen on being on a small aircraft I have always gone by boat from Aurora province. It is a scenic and exciting route since I get to see the wide expanse of the Sierra Madre mountain range. Waterfalls abound since the Sierra Madre is a well preserved watershed. It is in fact the last remaining big block of forest cover in Luzon. Un-named falls drain out to the Pacific as they carve out age-old rocks that had been exposed when the mountains were formed through folding. Miles and miles of rugged coastline are honeycombed with caves, cliffs and crevices. Beaches as varied as the nature can create lace the edge of the mountain. There are beaches with coral rubbles, pebbles, boulders, rocks and pink, gold, brown, gray, and white sand. Occasionally river deltas break the beach and allow the mixing of salt water and fresh water from the forest. This brings about an ideal condition for the growth of mangroves.

A kayak is a perfect tool to explore such riverine ecosystems. On one of the trips I paddled into a river and discovered a waterfalls at the end of one of the narrow corridors. It was such an exciting and exhilarating experience since I could not help but think that I may have been one of the privileged few to have seen it in its most pristine state. There was even a bit of a shower that day and the mangrove trees were in full bloom. Drops of rain drops fell on bright red flowers making them glimmer like diamonds. The pattering of rain mixed with the symphony of crickets, birds and the gushing of the water from the falls. The entire experience was surreal and puts one in such a state of being – meditative and hypnotic. Pristine places always have this effect on me. Somehow they open me up to messages that otherwise I would have not picked up from the noise and chaos of the city.

In this same river I met a Dumagat named Daniel. He offered bananas and root crops in exchange for coffee, sugar, diesel and gin. Money has no value in this place since there are no stores or shops where one can spend them. Since that encounter I learned the art of barter. I realized soon after that certain objects that have very little value for city folks like me can be a treasured possession. A woman named Lina taught me this lesson when I gave her a used raincoat as a farewell gift. I did not expect her to shed tears of joy for such a “cheap” item. I must have appeared more touched than her as she exclaimed with full emotions while hugging my gift, ”Naku di na ako mababasa pag kukuha ako ng nipa sa gubat! Iingatan ko ito talaga!” (I will no longer have to get wet when I collect nipa from the forest. I will treasure this gift.) Value is not always equated with the money one exchanges for an item. It is more associated with how much it will serve us. This woman has no idea that the lesson she gave me that day was even more valuable than the raincoat I left her.

One lazy afternoon while I was walking along the beach I met a group of Dumagat men who told me that they were on their way to attend a wedding. It was quite fascinating that the actual wedding ritual was not exactly set on a specific day and time. They told me that the wedding will occur when all the guests have arrived from wherever they were supposed to come from. These men had been walking for two days and it will take them another two days to reach their destination. Their story reverberated with the lesson of patience. People in the city no longer know the real essence of patience as we go about our daily routine stressfully hurrying from one task to another. When my five year old son came with me in one of these expeditions he brought with him his colourful toys that he used to build sandcastles. He could not understand why his Dumagat friends were not interested in playing with his toys. After picking them up and looking at them, these ebony skinned carefree children of the earth lost interest and instead started gathering sticks, seaweeds, flowers and stones. They built their sandcastles out of nature and with nature. I could not help but envy the freedom of spirit that these children enjoy. I watched them roll their naked bodies in the sand and blissfully shriek with joy as they run and jump with the waves.



Near Josefina falls in a place I call Shark Fin Bay, I became friends with a family of semi-nomadic Dumagat that had put up temporary shelters made of grass and leaves along the beach forest. An old man they call the Mayor proudly showed me a Philhealth card. He said that Governor Grace Padaca gave them this card so that they can enjoy health services anywhere they go. Although he said that the nearest health center is a few days walk from where we were, he nevertheless appreciate the fact that they have not been forgotten, that they are still important and that they still deserve such benefit.

The Dumagat is one of the many indigenous tribes of our country who are striving to survive in an ever changing world. Their population is slowly diminishing due to high mortality rate brought about by poor nutrition and diseases. They may be poor based on the usual criteria people use to gauge prosperity, but it is my belief that they are rich. They are full of indigenous knowledge and wisdom. The natural environment has been their home, their holy place, their medicine cabinet and their supermarket. Wild as it may seem, life in this remote place is actually tamer, simpler and slower than where I came from.

A Dive for Peace

Nordis, January 13, 2008
In the early 90’s a spiritual master by the name of Dzongsar Khyentse Rinpoche oversaw the creation of six thousand two hundred peace vases that were meant to restore harmony to the world. More than a decade and a half after, four thousand have reached different parts of the world, even as far as the Antarctic. The forces the Universe must have conspired since I ended up being part of the team that deployed three of them underwater in the Philippines.

The World Peace Vase Program was initiated in order to protect important places from misfortune and provide positive healing energies to those that need it. They were to be placed on all continents, in all major water bodies, in all important natural sites such as the highest mountains, largest rivers, holy and powerful places, areas of war, strife and ecologically significant, degraded or endangered natural sites. One of the three vases for underwater deployment was placed at the Tubbataha National Marine Park in Sulu Sea and the second one lies at forty feet underwater in a marine sanctuary in Bauan, Batangas. Deciding on the site for the third one was not difficult. The Pacific side of Isabela is a well preserved natural environment. No other place in the island of Luzon is as pristine as the Sierra Madre Natural Park. It is in fact the biggest park system in the Philippines. It definitely needs protection.


Getting there though was not easy. The boat ride from Baler, Aurora took eleven hours. There are no roads to this place. It is in fact one of the most remote places in the country. The fabulous scenery however made up for the lengthy travel. I had been coming here for the last eight years and I always look forward to coming back. Although the weather was clear, there was a slight wind blowing and creating moderate swells. As soon as our boat Captain sighted Shark Fin Bay, he slowed down the engine and prepared to drop anchor near the sheltered part of the beach. Five people with ebony black skin and short curly hair ran along the shore towards us waving their arms in a gesture of warm welcome. They were Dumagat friends of mine who establish temporary shelters on this beach every summer to gather food. They live semi-nomadic lives traveling from their community to other coastal areas to harvest the fruits of the forest and the sea. More of them emerged from the trees by the beach. Men in G-strings chewing betel nut, topless women in skirts and dark skinned children covered with white powdery sand gathered to meet us. It was good to be back and to be accepted.

After setting camp on the beach we hiked to the Dumagat village. Amidst the warmth of their cooking fire, we asked the men about the reefs of the area. We told them that we need to find a small cave or crevice that will be suitable for the underwater placement of the peace vase. Since they can’t seem to understand what I was talking about, I decided to show them. We walked back to our camp and I uncovered a large clay pot covered and sealed with cement.

Treasure vases or terbums are plastic receptacles filled with finely ground precious stones which were mixed with sea water and formed into small balls. The substances were dried before they were sealed in the containers. They are traditionally used by Tibetans to promote healing energy. The North American Indian tribes have similar sacred vases that they use to heal the land and to restore peace. The placement of a vase underwater requires it to be sealed in a special mixture of concrete or polymer. Hence, the small plastic vase is encapsulated in a big clay pot to protect it from water intrusion. It weights approximately 50 pounds.
All six thousand two hundred peace vases were transferred by caravan from Tibet and were consecrated for a period of two weeks by respected lamas in the Kingdom of Bhutan. After which they were brought to a Monastery in New Delhi, India. It has been said that the involvement in the placement of these vases will bring a lot of merit for anyone who participates, even in the most limited manner. Even to wish for the successful accomplishment of the vase placement is adequate to receive merit from the project. I thought about this as I explained to my Dumagat friends that the vase needs to find a final resting place and it is meant to protect their land, their holy place and their home. The Chief nodded his head and said,”Kung ganun, tutulungan namin kayo ihanap yan ng lugar kung san hindi matatangay ng alon at agos.” (In that case, we will help you find a place for it where it will be protected from the waves and the currents.) With this commitment it occurred to me that spirituality is universal. The Dumagat may not have a religion but their intention to protect their environment and maintain peace and harmony is just as strong as those who started this project.

The deities must have been on our side since the sea was flat as glass during the day of the deployment. The Dumagat fishermen selected an off-shore reef sheltered by rocky pinnacles. We donned on our diving gear and entered the water. We had to survey the area first, find the exact spot and go back to the boat for the vase. The subterranean rock formations rose from a depth of 25 meters. We descended to the sandy bottom, amazed that even at that depth there were sand ripples. It is an indicator of the enormity of the waves that roll in from the Pacific. We came upon a slope with several huge boulders wrapped with carpets of seaweeds and algae. Halfway through the dive an emperor angelfish emerged from under one enormous mound. Feeling intuitive I peeked underneath. Lo and behold there was a small cave just big enough for the vase. We took a mental note of the location and surfaced.

On the second dive we used two lift bags to make the peace vase neutral in weight underwater. This made it easier for us to move it from where the boat was anchored and towards the cave. Just as we were about to position the vase, a school of jacks suddenly appeared from nowhere. They hovered and swirled twenty feet above our heads, living witnesses to the symbolic task we had just accomplished. Interpreting this as a sign from heaven, we carefully positioned the vase in the cave. Feeling exuberant and fulfilled I pulled a branch of tropical pine or agoho tucked in the pocket of my buoyancy compensator. I laid it on top of the vase and offered a prayer of gratitude.
The journey of this vase has been long and incredible. So was the journey of vases that ended up in places like the the pyramids of Giza in Egypt, at Loch Ness in Scotland, in the Antarctic, Iceland, Poland, Hungary, Croatia, the killing fields of Cambodia and even at the peace park at ground zero in New York City. The second phase of the project is even more amazing. We have placed peace vases in inner space, and I have to admit that it was quite a challenge. Twelve vases however had been allotted for the moon and the satellites. I can only imagine what lies ahead as people go to great lengths to have peace on the planet.