Catanduanes: Frontier Territory

It was a hot humid morning when I arrived in Virac, the capital of Catanduanes. The weather was a far cry from what it was two weeks before when a typhoon lashed across the country. Catanduanes has always been known as an island that is relentlessly hit by typhoons. Hence, some call it “The Land of the Howling Winds”. Nonetheless, it has made the people resilient. Their strong adherence to the Catholic faith has also made them stronger as a people. There are Catholic chapels almost on every block which made me wonder whether they are ever filled up on any given Sunday. Formerly a sub-province of Albay, Catanduanes is said to have been discovered by Bornean datus who came all the way from Panay in the 13th century. Perhaps this was the reason why one of the islands on the east coast had been called by the same name. It was this island that I came to Catanduanes for. My intention was to explore the underwater frontier of this island paradise.

Catanduanes came from the word Catanduan which means “where tando trees abound”. I don’t know exactly what tando trees look like but I do know that the province abound with abaca trees and is in fact one of the country’s largest producer of unprocessed abaca fibers. Most households are engaged in collecting, stripping and drying of abaca. This plant that resembles a banana tree grows wild on the island.


My drive from Virac to Panganiban, the jump-off point to Panay island, was quite interesting since the landscape and seascape proved to be quite stunning. My first stop was the town of Bato where a centuries-old coralline church stood. It’s construction started in 1830. It was only finished after 53 years. Despite the numerous typhoons and the ravages of time, it has managed to remain well preserved. From Bato I took the eastern coastal road that passes through Puraran, the torch bearer of Catanduanes, as far as tourism is concerned. It was this beach that placed the province on the surfing map of the world. Puraran is considered to be one of the meanest surfing sites and only seasoned surfers can safely ride the waves here. It is known for the “Majestic” waves with long breathtaking barrels. When I got there however a different Puraran presented itself to me. The sea was flat and the long stretch of beach was empty. Locals said that the beach normally is filled up with surfers from September to February when the northeast monsoon is blowing, creating swells and surf that even international surfers seek.

The weather may not be ideal for surfing but I came here to dive. So I wasn’t disappointed. I was even thankful that the weather was ideal for what I wanted to do. Further north of Puraran, is an endless chain of coves, bays and inlets. I lost count as I was distracted by the mini-rice terraces that were carved from the slopes of the hills and the small valleys. After five hours of travel, I finally got to Payo, a community that is now officially known as Panganiban. Here is where my host family resides. A diver friend Dr. Rene Reyes is a cardiologist who grew up here. He boasts of stunning reef areas, extensive wet lands, miles and miles of coastline that had been shaped and re-shaped by nature. It was upon his invitation that I came with my diving gear to discover what very few people have actually seen.



Our first dive was in a place called Dayhagan. A shallow reef crest dropped abruptly to 60 feet. Massive foliose corals decorate the reef and they resemble lettuce and cabbages. Tiny reef fishes darted in and out of the corals and swam as one entity. From the edge I saw several rock pinnacles jutting up from the sandy bottom. The 100-feet visibility provided a pleasant swim from rock to rock. Crevices, tunnels and caves characterize the massive underwater rock formations. Swimming through them provided some thrilling moments. Over at a place called Loran the stunning walls and drop-offs again amazed me as we discovered numerous caves and overhangs. Hundreds of glass fishes hover in the safety of these tunnels that I practically parted the schools as I swam through them. The site was named such because of the Loran station that was built by the Americans in 1953 and was operated by them until 1971 when it was turned over to the Philippine government. The long stretch of white sandy beach and the coralline islands and magnificent underwater terrain must have fascinated the Americans way back then. Locals told stories of sea planes that used to land here and the times when they used to watch foreign movies in the Loran station. The Americans stationed here must have felt so lucky to have been assigned to live in paradise.


The fish sanctuary over at the southeast portion of Panay Island was a shallow pleasant dive. Several species of fish and soft corals made the reef look so pretty and colorful. It was obvious that the care that the fisherfolks had been putting into the sanctuary has been paying off. The shallow reefs is an excellent snorkeling site as well.

My exploratory trip to Panay ended up as a journey of discovery. It was a sojourne filled with exciting prospects for more adventure trips in the future. Asian Spirit flies four times a week to Virac. Several accommodation facilities are found within the capital. Midtown Inn, Rakdell Inn, Maren;s Pension House and Rhaj Inn are good places to stay. Twin Rock Beach Resort located at the outskirt of Virac is an excellent retreat. It is located in a nice cove with golden sand and a shallow reef area that drops down to a wall that reaches down to 100 feet. In Puraran, one can stay at the Puraran Beach Resort. Traveling to the more remote towns require homestay accommodations and an adventurous spirit. As an emerging destination Catanduanes definitely is a destination to watch out for.